Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
